The Octo line from Bulgari imprinted itself in the minds of collectors, ever since its inception in 2012 – thrust into the fore with its achievements in watchmaking and design, carving out a niche for itself amongst the cognoscenti. With its architectural lines, playing with angles and light, the collection has fast become synonymous with Italian style in the 21st Century, combined with the very best in Swiss watchmaking. In 2023, Bulgari takes the covers off a new complement to this collection – the Octo Roma, a design that pays homage to its Roman roots with a rounder, softer design, whilst honouring the tenets of Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship by incorporating elements of Haute Horlogerie into their design through decorations, all the way to high complications.
Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic
The Octo Roma Automatic is a handsome addition to this collection, that is the purest expression of timekeeping, with only hours, minutes, seconds and the date displayed on the dial. Measuring in at 41mm and crafted from stainless steel, its case, along with its dial also plays greatly with textures, with a Clous de Paris on the dial that provides further visual interest on a dial that is largely utilitarian in appearance. Hour markers denote the time, except for Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock. Available in three dial colour variations – blue, anthracite and white, all three have their own unique ways of playing with light. All of the hands and markers are enhanced with Super-Luminova for night-time visibility.
Powering this elegantly simple watch is the in-house Calibre BVL 191, featuring automatic winding, date, and a power reserve of 42 hours.
All of the new Octo Roma Automatic watches come equipped with a quick-change mechanism for the bracelet, and are delivered with an additional rubber strap with a pin buckle.
Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph
Continuing the design codes from the Octo Roma Automatic, the Octo Roma Chronograph incorporates the design elements of the new watches with the additional complication of the chronograph. These codes have led the design of the chronograph to merge form, function, design and ergonomics – in particular, the chronograph pushers have been integrated into the case, so as to flow on directly from the lugs, to maintain the distinctive softer Octo Roma case shape.
The dial carries over the Clous de Paris motif from the Octo Roma Automatic, and incorporates the chronograph subdials without cluttering the dial. The chronograph minutes counter is located at 9 o’clock, at 6 o’clock is the chronograph hours sundial, and 3 o’clock is the running seconds counter. The date window snuggles in at 4:30, and does not interrupt any of the chronograph subdials – crucial when precision measurement is key.
Measuring in at a case diameter of 42mm, with a stainless steel bracelet, the Octo Roma Chronograph, like its Automatic sister, features a quick-change mechanism for the bracelet, and is delivered with an additional rubber strap with pin buckle.
Powering the watch is the in-house BVL 399, Bulgari’s very own in-house automatic chronograph movement, with a 42 hour power reserve.
Bulgari Octo Roma Striking Tourbillon Sapphire
One of the Haute Horlogerie pieces unveiled by Bulgari this year at Watches and Wonders, this watch formed one half of a duo of watches that were the most modern and architectural of the Octo Roma collection, a watch playing with light, negative space and modernisation of Haute Horlogerie.
The watch itself features a flying tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, along with the hours and minutes – indeed, high complications at its best. Where this sets itself apart from the rest is its work in skeletonisation – its components seemingly floating in mid air with no discernable attachment points. A flying tourbillon in of itself seems like magic, with its single point of attachment, but the way that Bulgari has constructed and skeletonised the manufacture calibre BVL 206, it almost has been elevated to a dark art. This is further accentuated by the sapphire crystal glass back, allowing light to enter through the back, as well as its sapphire crystal case middle – a true play with light and the openness that skeletonisation provides. Titanium further provides the watch with lightness, giving the experience of lightness in weight, and airiness in its appearance.
Measuring in at 44mm in diameter, the watch is powered by the aforementioned BVL 206 manufacture movement, providing a power reserve of 64 hours.
The watch is delivered on a modern-looking rubberised black alligator strap with neon green stitching to match the markers and hands, and is secured by a titanium folding buckle.
Conclusion
The new Octo Roma collection is a great complement to the renowned Octo collection, and makes for a more everyday alternative to the Octo Finissimo that has cemented Bulgari as one of the leaders of modern 21st Century watchmaking. Those who love style and substance will love the new Octo Roma collection for its Roman heritage, unique soft octagonal lines, and the manufacture calibres housed within. For the last decade, Bulgari has undoubtedly made a hit in the Octo line, and will continue to craft watches that utilise the rich history of Rome in terms of design and combine it with Swiss savoir-faire in watchmaking.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
OCTO ROMA – 103739 (BLUE DIAL) – 103740 (ANTHRACITE DIAL) – 103738 (WHITE DIAL)
Movement
Mechanical in-house self-winding movement, Calibre BVL 191; indication of hours, minutes, seconds, date window at 3 o’clock; movement decorated with Côtes de Genève motif and chamfering; 42-hour power reserve.
Case and dial
Stainless-steel case, 41mm in diameter, 9.15mm thick, transparent case back, screw-in steel crown with a ceramic insert, water-resistant to 100m; white, anthracite or blue dial with Clous de Paris motif; hands, metallic indexes and numerals filled with Super-LumiNova®.
Bracelet
Polished and satin-brushed stainless-steel bracelet with a folding clasp; interchangeability system. Additional rubber bracelet with pin buckle included.
OCTO ROMA CHRONOGRAPH – 103471 (BLACK DIAL) – 103829 (BLUE DIAL)
Movement
Mechanical in-house self-winding movement, Calibre BVL 399; chronograph function, indication of hours, minutes and small seconds, date window between 4 and 5 o’clock; movement decorated with Côtes de Genève motif and chamfering; 42-hour power reserve.
Case and dial
Stainless-steel case, 42mm in diameter, 12.4mm thick, transparent case back, screw-in steel crown with a ceramic insert, water-resistant to 100m; blue or black dial with Clous de Paris motif; hands, metallic indexes and numerals filled with Super-LumiNova®.
Bracelet
Polished and satin-brushed stainless-steel bracelet with a folding clasp; interchangeability system. Additional rubber bracelet with pin buckle included.
OCTO ROMA STRIKING TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE – 103914
44mm titanium case, 11.65mm thick; sapphire case middle; black DLC titanium crown with black ceramic insert, transparent case back. Water-resistant to 5 ATM. Manual winding manufacture Calibre BVL 206 with flying tourbillon; power reserve 64 hours. Green Super-LumiNova® indexes. Rubberized black alligator strap with green stitching, titanium folding buckle.