In the watch world, there is an almost never-ending quest for exacting standards in construction, decoration and performance. To give us enthusiasts a modicum of reassurance, there are a number of certifications that guarantee timekeeping, finishing and functionality of the whole watch. One type of certification that has been championed by Chopard is Qualite Fleurier – a test of exacting standards in the three areas of watchmaking that aficionados have keen eyes for: construction, decoration and performance of the watch. At Watches and Wonders 2024, Chopard unveils the L.U.C Qualite Fleurier in a Lucent Steel case – a watch with its extensive testing procedure according to the Qualite Fleurier standards, in a direct shot to the hearts of watch lovers around the world.
Originally an initiative started by prominent brands located within the Fleurier area of Switzerland, following the withdrawal of those brands from the Fondation Qualite Fleurier, Chopard remains the sole custodian of the foundation since 2022, and continues to issue Qualite Fleurier certifications according to the strict criteria outlined by the founders to this day. Five key criteria govern the Qualite Fleurier:
- 100% Swiss Made – The entirety of the watch head must be constructed in Switzerland, which includes the manufacturing of movement blanks, PVD/Coating processes, jewel setting and prototyping.
- Quality of Finish – Finishing and decoration of the watch must be rigorous and applied to Haute Horlogerie standards – processes such as anglage and polishing must be applied to shaped parts, and if possible, must have drawn lines on the component (brushed finishing).
- Chronometry (COSC Certification) – All watches undergoing the Qualite Fleurier certification must also pass COSC certification for timekeeping.
- Chronofiable Test – A test of simulated ageing on the watch, a set number of watches are pulled from production to test elements such as pusher activation, crown push and pull actions, magnetic field, shock and water resistance.
- Fleuritest Precision – The final watch is put through a 24 hour testing cycle that simulates daily wear. The watch must fall within 0 to +5 seconds per day through this test.
Passing all of these five areas qualifies a watch to be Qualite Fleurier certified.
The first Qualite Fleurier watch from Chopard to be housed within a 39mm Lucent Steel case (a material exclusive to Chopard that is made of recycled steel), the watch presents in a classical manner with a silver sector-style dial with hour markers and a small seconds indicator at 6 o’clock. With a slimness of 8.92mm, the watch is firmly styled as a dress watch, which is further reinforced by its lug design – similar to that of watches from the 50s and 60s. The watch is delivered on a calf leather strap with vintage style stitching details, and on a L.U.C stainless steel pin buckle.
The magic of this watch is located on the rear, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The calibre L.U.C 96.09-L is housed within this watch, with a 22k gold micro-rotor providing the winding power of the watch. Chronometer certified by the COSC, and lavishly finished, the movement adheres to the standards set out by the Fondation Qualite Fleurier for this watch. The entire completed watch is tested to this standard, making it one of the most rigorously tested dress watches on the market.
Whilst all of these features and certifications are remarkable in of themselves, the fact that they are all brought together in one watch is certainly a feat worthy of more praise. Furthermore, Chopard’s use of Lucent Steel, a material that comprises 80% recycled steel, is brighter and is more scratch resistant than virgin stainless steel further reinforces Chopard’s commitment to sustainability in their watchmaking practices. The L.U.C Qualite Fleurier is further proof that Chopard is quietly raising the standards of watchmaking through the use of sustainable materials, and continuously refining their production processes.
Technical Specifications:
Case
Metal: stainless steel
Thickness: 8.92 mm
Dial: Silver brass-based dial, sunburst satin-brushed finish in the center and circular satin finish on the chapter ring
Caseback: see-through sapphire crystal
Crown Material: stainless steel
Movement
Movement: L.U.C 96.09-L
Type of Winding: self-winding mechanical movement
Function: small seconds, hours and minutes
Power Reserve: Power Reserve of approximately 65 hours, L.U.C Twin Technology (two stacked barrels)
Certification(s): Fleurier Quality Foundation certificate
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
Movement Dimensions: Ø 27.40 mm
Movement Thickness: 3.30 mm
Number of Movement Parts: 172
Jewels: 29
Strap & Buckle
Buckle Type: pin buckle
Buckle Material: stainless steelStrap: brown calfskin (matt)