Grand Seiko has a plethora of models available in their current catalogue that embody the spirit of Japanese watchmaking, the latest of which form the backbone of their Evolution 9 series. 2020 saw the introduction of the first Evolution 9 models to celebrate the 60th Anniversary of Grand Seiko – a milestone meant to signify the brand experiencing the full zodiac cycle, and coming full circle, being reborn as the brand we see today. The next model in this lineup was the award-winning SLGH005 “White Birch” – released in 2021, and was lauded by the GPHG in its Men’s Watch division. A further evolution was made on this model in 2022 with the SLGH017 “Night Birch” – a darkened version of the “White Birch” model in a hi-intensity titanium case. This watch intrigued me with its case material, dial aesthetic and its movement, and we decided to pick this for review to see if this model holds up a few years after its release.
In terms of aesthetics, this watch follows the aforementioned Evolution 9 design cues, a watch designed with an “impressive look” in mind, according to Grand Seiko watch designer Kiyotaka Sakai. Firstly, the dial design included a thicker hour hand, and a longer minute hand to increase legibility. The minutes and seconds hands are also bent downwards towards the chapter ring to reduce parallax error, thereby increasing the legibility of the time. In addition to this, the 12 o’clock index in most Grand Seiko watches is two times the width of the other indexes, but with the Evolution 9 design having “impressiveness” in mind, the index was designed to be 2.5 times the width of a normal index, giving the 12 o’clock marker more presence, and making it easier to read the time.
The Night Birch SLGH017 further iterates on this with a textured dial that is inspired by the birch forests of the Hiraniwa Plateau located near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi where the watch is manufactured. It is a scene of the forest at night, with the dial being stamped seven times to achieve the desired texture, and multiple coating layers are required to achieve the colouring of the dial. In different lighting conditions, the texture of the dial goes from black to shades of grey, creating a dynamic look for the watch. In addition to this, the diamond-cut hour markers reflect light in even low light conditions, making luminescent paint for the hands and markers almost redundant. As a final touch, the date window at 3 o’clock has a colour matching date wheel, making the watch incredibly coherent across its functions and design.
The case is another key element of the Evolution 9 design, with a balance between the hairline finished and polished finished surfaces an essential consideration to create a serene look. By placing the hairline finishes on the top surfaces of the bezel, lugs and the sides of the watch, and mirrored, Zaratsu polished surfaces on the edges of those components, the edges are able to stand out and possess a sharp, precise look that is still understated and refined. With the arrival of a new movement bearing a slim profile, the opportunity presented itself to design the ideal case shape and profile to house the new movement. A case design with a steep vertical side, a gentle curve of the case middle and attenuated tips of the lug created a firm yet light presence. A point was also made to lower the centre of gravity of the watch, which works in tandem with the slimmer movement, enabling a thinner caseback – this in combination with a wider lug width enables a better stance of the watch on the wrist. With these design features, the Night Birch takes all of these and applies this to a hi-intensity titanium case, applying the lower centre of gravity design to an ultra light titanium case. This creates an effect on the wrist that is quite unique – one where the watch almost disappears on the wrist, and only re-emerges when you are looking for the time or date. The bracelet design is also a source of intrigue, with its wide stance and dimensions. Some may take issue with the 22mm lug width, but like the modified and stanced cars as seen in the car scene, the wide stance enables an air of stability, creating a sense of comfort on the wrist. The interplay of light across the watch case is also evident, and even in titanium, these finishes hold true. In particular, the top of the bezel being brushed accentuates the stable and slim design.
Tying all of these design elements together is the Calibre 9SA5, which has three key design features that give the Evolution 9 watches an edge in performance, as well as giving the watches their signature designs. Firstly, the Dual Impulse Escapement enables a long power reserve of 80 hours thanks to its efficient design that delivers mainspring energy directly to the balance wheel. MEMS (Micro Electromechanical Systems) manufacturing technology also enables the escapement components to be light, which also increases efficiency in the movement. In contrast to other movements in the Grand Seiko collections, the 9SA5 incorporates a free-sprung balance wheel – free of the indexed balance, the movement has a higher resistance to shock and positional changes. To top it all off, the movement is designed with a special horizontal gear train with 4 wheels instead of three in the going train that decreases the energy load in the movement, which also enables a slimmer construction. The Night Birch is a watch that is weekend-proof – take it off on Friday, and pick it up on Monday, ready for another week of wear. For those who have not experienced a Hi-Beat movement, putting this watch to your ear gives a sound that is precise, yet not as frantic as you would expect. Performance-wise, on casual observation, the watch is holding to around +3 seconds per day – well within the Grand Seiko standard. All of these aspects make the watch incredibly easy to work with, and makes it a great everyday watch, with the movement aiding its slimness, and its chronometric performance.
I was not expecting the Grand Seiko SLGH017 “Night Birch” to be this good. There were a number of features that I thought of as compelling (its movement, and its slimness), however, I really needed to experience these in the metal for me to really come around. Dials and cases are all well and good in renderings, but to really have the true Grand Seiko experience, the visual experience has to be done in person, and its fit and finish are truly exceptional for its price point. Whilst the 22mm lug width has been widely criticised, I feel that they are unwarranted, and they give the watch a balanced look, whilst giving the watch stability – this may be due to the titanium construction, given its lightness, however, I would also make the guess that in stainless steel, this balanced feel will be accentuated. The watch is also incredibly great to live with – paired with businesswear, or casual jeans and a t-shirt, the watch truly disappears on the wrist, and only reappears once you are searching for it. The only gripe I would have about this watch is the bracelet – I’m not a fan of how the bracelet has no micro-adjustment for an even better fit on the wrist, as well as it being fastened by pins and sleeves – I would have expected screws in a watch of this level, but I’m happy to be proven wrong. Having said this about the bracelet, what I am a fan of is the all brushed finishing, no brushed centre links to worry about!
Overall, the Grand Seiko SLGH017 “Night Birch” is a watch worthy of your consideration if you are in the market for something from Grand Seiko, but with a little bit of a twist. The materials and design make it easy to live with, whilst the movement has been designed to have great performance over time. Grand Seiko set out with the Evolution 9 Series to make a watch that is even more accurate, legible, durable and beautiful than ever, and I believe that they have achieved that with the new collection. The Night Birch takes it even further with a feather-light case and bracelet, with a handsome black dial that will be pride of place on your wrist for years to come.
Technical Specifications
Exterior
| Exterior: | High-intensity titanium |
| Case back: | See-through & Screw case back |
| Glass Coating: | Anti-reflective coating on inner surface |
| Case size: | Diameter 40.0mm Lug-to-lug 47.0mm Thickness 11.7mm |
| Band width: | 22mm |
| Bracelet Length: | 192mm |
Movement
| Caliber no.: | 9SA5 Instructions |
| Movement Type: | Automatic with manual winding |
| Mean daily rate: | +5 to -3 seconds per dayMean daily rate is a mean value of daily rates in a condition where the movement before assembly in a case is measured in six positions in a fixed manner under artificially controlled environment for 12 days. |
| Normal usage accuracy: | +8 to -1 seconds per day |
Functions
| Water resistance: | 10 bar |
| Weight: | 114 g |
| Other details / Features: | Screw-down crown, Allergy-safe metal |