If I can do it, you can too.
Despite being a watch enthusiast for many years, I had not, up till the point when I stepped through the doors of IHT Swiss Watch Atelier, ever attempted to open the back of a watch. The most “watchmaking” that I had ever done, was to change out the straps on my watches, with a little tool that I had gotten as a free gift from one of the events I had been to.
So it was with a little trepidation that I sat in front of my watchmaking bench, along with 3 other classmates, to undertake the “Build Your Own IHT Watch: An Artisanal Experience” watchmaking course, given by Master Watchmaker – Michael Dubs.
Now, I could not have found a better instructor for what I was about to do. Michael is a specialist in high complications, and has had a 30 year long career with the most prestigious brands in all of watchmaking. Starting at IWC, he went on to work at Audemars Piguet, Girard Perregaux, Parmigiani Fleurier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Carl F. Bucherer, Maurice Lacroix and Porsche Design.
Most significantly, in 2014, Michael left Audemars Piguet Le Locle as Head of Production to relocate to Singapore where he had met and married his wife, now also his business partner. There he helped to set up Audemars Piguet’s training division.
Michael then, is as Swiss and as Singaporean as they come, and with his tremendous watchmaking background, both in production and in training, there was no one better that I could have as my instructor.
My Journey Begins
IHT 1: The watch that I will build, is a classic pilot’s style watch, containing a Chinese made Unitas clone movement. The movement is large in size as it is known for being used in pocket watches. It is therefore easier for beginners to work on and to practice basic watchmaking skills with, without ruining more expensive Swiss movements.
IHT 2: IHT Swiss Watch Atelier is located at – 61 Ubi Rd 1, #03-08 Oxley Bizhub, Singapore 408727, and the unit is large and spacious enough to have all the necessary equipment to conduct the course. Large windows bring in natural light to help, just the way that workshops are set up in Switzerland. The difference though is that there are no Swiss mountains to look at out the window.
IHT 3: The Unitas clone movement I would be working on is 90% dissembled (some parts like the keyless works are already assembled), and ready for me to work on.
IHT 4: My watchmaking bench, with all the tools set up. Notice the arm rests and the fact that the bench is placed on a table top. This helps the movement I am working on closer to my eyes, and is more ergonomic for my arms and fingers.
IHT 5: Here, I am listening closely to Michael’s instructions, as you can tell, I am very focused on the task ahead.
IHT 6: Initial steps – assembling the barrel (that powers the movement) and parts of the gear train.
IHT 7: Michael helps us along and oversees our progress. Here, he helps one of my classmates on a specific movement component.
IHT 8: This is my first time working with such small parts, and it is a bit of a learning curve in handling and manipulating things with fine tweezers. They have to become an extension of your fingers.
IHT 9 & 10: Here, the barrel and gear train have been installed. Generally, I have a good understanding of how a watch movement works, but going through this class, it is obvious that I can attain a deeper level of understanding in terms of what goes into a movement, especially when I actually manipulate and assemble parts that I’ve only previously read about.
IHT 11: The black plastic stick with a point is a very useful tool as it helps me to adjust the position of small parts without touching the movement with my fingers, which have oils that can damage the surface finishing.
IHT 12: Here, the gear train bridge has been installed. The large plate that I had to place over the gear train helps make the movement more stable when it is running. However, making sure that all the pivots sit correctly before covering them is an exercise in patience.
IHT 13: Every step is shown via a video on a large screen, which helps to get a sense of what is ahead.
IHT 14: Installing the winding ratchet wheel. Note the extremely small screws
IHT 15: It’s been an hour to get to this point so far. The movement is now ready to receive the balance wheel, the beating heart of the watch.
IHT 16: It starts with installing the balance wheel bridge, now the ordeal begins.
IHT 17: After a few attempts, the balance wheel is finally running.
IHT 18: Now, I’m installing the movement into the movement ring. This took a bit longer than I expected because the screws are so small.
IHT 19: These are the two dial options available, white with red highlights, or black with white highlights. You can choose your hand colors as well.
IHT 20: I decided to go with a black dial with white highlights, as well as some red hands for contrast. Also, I went with the custom option in which you have a steel plate placed on the dial where a logo would normally be. Here you can choose to have an engraving done, which can be arranged before you arrive at the place. With my dial, I went with the ISOCHRONO logo, but there are quite a few possibilities.
IHT 21: The hour hand is installed
IHT 22: Here, I am using a rubber finger cot to cover the tool to make sure that the watch hands are set to the proper height. The rubber finger cot there to make sure that I don’t scratch the hands.
IHT 23: Now that both hands are installed, its starting to look like a real watch.
IHT 24: The next step is to set the movement in the case.
IHT 25: I had a few issues with this, the screws and fasteners of the dial are really small, and quite difficult to manipulate with tweezers. But I did it in the end.
IHT 26: IHT Swiss Watch Atelier has a machine that is able to verify the water resistance of the case (to 100 metres). It uses air pressure in this case instead of submerging the watch in water.
IHT 27: I’m now finally a watchmaker! (not really)
IHT 28: Here is a close up look at the watch that I built.
IHT 29: Here I am receiving a certificate of completion from Michael. Am I a watchmaker yet? Probably not, but I am ready to start moving onwards to more difficult things.
Conclusion
Having completed the course, here are 5 key takeaways from my experience
1.The world of the small is a different place
Watchmaking is a skill that needs to be practiced in order to get better and more familiar with. My main challenge was in learning how to deal with the world of the small. From managing my finger sensitivity, to the placement of the loupe on my eyes in order to manipulate the parts of the watch, it is difficult, yet extremely rewarding to learn to do it properly. Watchmaking as well is like a form of moving meditation. Because of the extreme focus it requires, time passes very quickly. I even learnt to be more patient as well.
2. A course like this refines your understanding of the inner workings of a watch.
I think that I will start to buy watches differently now that I have done this course. Having actually manipulated watch parts in order to make a functioning watch, I think I can judge watch movements with a bit more sensitivity than before.
3.Realizing the enormous skill of the watchmakers at high end watch brands.
Being a watchmaker is not an easy task, and when choosing to buy a watch, its easy to get lost in the game of comparing features, when the basic tasks required to complete a watch are something to be appreciated.
4.The importance of a good instructor.
Michael was able to do things with an ease and finesse, that comes from years of working with high complications like minute repeaters and tourbillons. Being instructed by someone who has seen it all does mean that he has a huge reservoir of tips and tricks to draw from. Watchmaking is not easy, but his manner of instruction was clear and concise enough, such that the only thing holding me back was the lack of familiarity with the watchmaking process, which I was there to overcome. Having a clear idea in my mind of what to do was never a problem. It feels like the proper Swiss way of doing things, which is very nice.
5.Would I recommend the course?
Very much so! You can find out more information about the course I attended via the their website (https://iht.com.sg/), as well as the other courses available, including a more advanced one licensed from Master Watchmaker, Paul Gerbar, as well as higher level possibilities, where you can work on more advanced movements, as well as different types of decoration and finishing/
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“Build Your Own IHT Watch: An Artisanal Experience”
Perfect for enthusiasts and beginners alike, you will leave this hands-on Masterclass with a functional manual winding mechanical watch and a deeper appreciation for the timeless craft of horology. Come learn from Michael Dubs, a Swiss Master Watchmaker who has 16 years’ experience with Audemars Piguet.
Duration 8h for 4-6 pax.
Price: From SGD950/pax
Contact: Phyllis Dubs at +65 8846 5744 (Whatsapp)
Address: Swiss Watch Atelier IHT Pte Ltd – #03-08 Oxley Bizhub, 61 Ubi Road 1 Singapore 408727