Watches and Wonders 2024 was largely a conservative affair, with the brands unveiling watches that are tried and true variations of classics that will stand the test of time. In a time of global uncertainty, consumers want to know that the watches they acquire will stand the test of time. That’s why when Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled the new Toric models, watch enthusiasts all over the world started to imagine their lives with a new acquisition into their collections.
Two models were unveiled at the fair – a dressy Petite Seconde model with an interestingly designed movement, as well as a Chronograph Rattrapante model, limited to 30 pieces worldwide, which ignited discussion amongst lovers of traditional dress watches. These two models, under the guidance of CEO Guido Terrini have also reignited the fervour for Parmigiani Fleurier, bringing the brand back to its roots with the Toric, and yet, it is a completely different entity to the model originally introduced in 1996.
A watch enthusiast’s dream, the Toric Petite Seconde distils everything you want in a watch – hours, minutes, seconds and a manually wound movement, but all of these elements are executed at a height expected of a haute-horlogerie manufacture. The model takes its design inspiration from the original Toric model unveiled in 1996, which is inspired by the Doric columns of ancient Greek architecture. However, the 2024 version takes the original knurled bezel design (which is ageing like a fine wine, by the way), and modernises it – widening the dial opening, but also combining this with a softer rounded case and a textured dial with a hours track that slopes downwards, in a cheve style, that is reminiscent of old watches where a difference in level is evident towards the hour markers.
The dial is also matte finished in a process that Michel Parmigiani perfected whilst restoring old watches – on a gold dial base, a special paste of cream of tartar, crushed sea salt and silver mixed with demineralised water is used with special brushes to polish the surface of the dial, which creates a soft-looking surface that disperses light (called grene in French). Further adding to its minimalist appeal, the new-style logo with the PF initials and the short hour markers clean up the dial significantly, and is accentuated by the nubuck alligator leather straps with “punto a mano” stitching used by the best Neapolitan tailors. The cases on offer are in 18 carat rose gold or 950 platinum – sumptuous materials for a dress watch.
Powering these modern dress pieces is the PF780 movement – a movement that is lavishly manufactured and constructed. Hewn from 18 carat rose gold are its bridges, which are decorated with “Cotes de Fleurier”, a pattern that gives the impression of a chequerboard, which contrasts against the sandblasted finishing of the mainplate. The only components that are visible are the dual barrels and the escapement system – the going train amongst others is hidden by the rose gold bridges, which gives a tactile sense of the watch when it is being wound, and life is being breathed into the watch. The movement is well finished with its hand-bevelled steel bridges for the balance wheel and the barrels, and aside from the possibility of the inclusion of more internal angles, the rear-side of the Toric Petite Seconde is a visual feast, even more so when viewed from the rear of the platinum cased model. The movement features a 60 hour power reserve, and beats at a modern 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz).
Amazingly, the Toric Chronograph Rattrapante manages to make a complicated watch appear simple, with it’s liberal use of negative space on the dial, as well as the cheve style dial with its shortened hour markers, and minute markings close to the edge of the dial. The codes of the modernised Petite Seconde model are all here, with its singular knurled bezel, widened dial opening and its softer rounded case. However, in this model, a warm “Natural Umber” coloured dial provides this watch with its soft hue – neither overpowering, nor too subtle, the watch embodies the quiet luxury look that has been pervasive amongst fashion of late. The Toric Chronograph Rattrapante uses 18 carat gold markers and hands, with a rhodium plated rattrapante hand to make it easier to distinguish one event from another. The clean design of the watch is further accentuated by its rattrapante pusher that is integrated into the crown.
Limited to 30 pieces worldwide, the watch is powered by the PF361 movement – a manually-wound rattrapante chronograph that is skeletonised on the movement side, giving a view of the two column wheels, split-seconds mechanism, chronograph levers and the barrel. As befitting a watch that is reportedly harder to produce than a tourbillon due to the level of adjustment required to make a rattrapante watch operational, the plates and bridges of the watch are crafted of 18 carat rose gold, and feature sharp internal angles in its chamfering. The movement plays a bit of hide and seek with its components, however, this adds to its visual appeal. The movement beats at an unusual 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz) – not commonly seen in haute-horlogerie chronograph movements, and has a power reserve of 65 hours.
Compared to Toric models of old, which have now appeared to age as a exercise in baroque luxury, the new Toric Petite Seconde and Chronograph Rattrapante retain design cues of yesteryears, but inject a modern minimalism that the watches so sorely needed to be considered by today’s collectors. By and large, Parmigiani Fleurier has achieved this and so much more – the brand received much praise from the community for these releases, from an aesthetic perspective as well as a watchmaking perspective. In this case, it appears that aesthetics are in service of the watchmaking, with the harmony of movement and design being the key factor in its critical reception. The direction that Parmigiani Fleurier is taking for its newest models is certainly a sign for things to come, and that the brand is refocusing its efforts in having aesthetic and engineering working in tandem with one another.
Technical Specifications
Toric Petite Seconde
DIAL SPECIFICATIONS
Material: 18ct rose gold or 950 platinum
Color: Grey Celadon (Platinum model) or Sand Gold (18k Rose Gold model)
Finishing: hand-grained
Indexes: hand-applied 18ct gold rhodium-plated appliques
HANDS
Hours and minutes: 18ct gold rhodium-plated Small seconds: steel rhodium-plated
STRAP
Sand Gold (Platinum model) or Grey Celadon (18k Rose Gold model) hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather Closure: platinum 950 pin buckle
CASE SPECIFICATIONS
Polished platinum 950 with knurled bezel Diameter: 40.6 mm
Thickness: 8.8 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire Case back: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire Engraving on case back: serial number – “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 30 m
MOVEMENT SPECIFICATIONS
PF780 – Manual Winding Manufacture Movement in 18 ct Rose Gold with small seconds
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 28,800 Vph (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
No. of components: 157
Overall diameter total: 28.4 mm
Thickness: 3.15 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Fleurier, hand-bevelled steel bridges
Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
DIAL SPECIFICATIONS
Color: Natural Umber
Material: 18ct rose gold
Finishing: hand-grained
Indexes: hand-applied 18ct rose gold appliques
CASE SPECIFICATIONS
Polished 18ct rose gold with knurled bezel Diameter: 42.5 mm
Thickness: 14.4 mm
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire Case back: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire Engraving on case back: serial number – “Edition limitée X/30” –
“PARMIGIANI FLEURIER” – “36’000 Alt/h” Water resistance: 30 m
MOVEMENT SPECIFICATIONS
PF361 – Manual Winding Manufacture Movement in 18 ct Rose Gold with integrated split seconds chronograph
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000 Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 35
No. of components: 285
Overall diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 7.35 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-bevelled bridges
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, small seconds, split seconds chronograph
HANDS
Hours and minutes: 18ct rose gold Chronograph and small seconds: steel, rhodium or rose gold-plated
BRACELET
Sand gold hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather
Closure: 18ct rose gold pin buckle