For the past two years there has been a sense of pent-up wanderlust that has swept through a number of nations, its citizens yearning to once explore exotic cities once again. At the present time, many watch lovers are stuck at home – whilst they are able to go on adventures within their own borders, more often than not, they will not be crossing time zones. For urban exploration, Bell & Ross has you covered with BR 05, in time only, chronograph and skeletonised options, however, the new BR 05 GMT is made for those seeking adventures in far-flung locales, when overseas jaunts are a reality again.
The BR 05 GMT is a familiar design from Bell & Ross, its dial design taken from the cockpit-inspired collections that the company has made in the past. The large numerals and markers are now executed with applied markers and the dial is now a black sunray finish, giving a sense of depth and sophistication to the dial whilst remaining highly legible. Compared to the original BR 05, the addition of the GMT function means an additional chapter ring for the 24 hour indicator was added. The black denotes the night time, and the grey indicates daytime – the colour scheme being very utilitarian in its appearance. Four hands are visible on the dial – baton-shaped hour and minute hands, central seconds, and the 24 hour hand that has been given a large, lume-filled triangular-tipped hand with red colouring to separate it from the rest of the hands. A date window is visible at 3 o’clock, giving this watch maximum convenience for those on extended voyages.
The integrated case and bracelet have certainly piqued the interest of watch lovers everywhere – most certainly a polarising design choice. For those that love the all-metal look, the flow of the bracelet and its integration into the case has been designed with comfort and style in mind. The way the bracelet curves around the wrist has been paid close attention to, and drapes very well over the wrist. If bracelets are not your thing though, a black rubber strap is available with a folding clasp – one that integrates into the case of the watch. A 100m water resistance rating with screw in crown also means that the watch will survive the elements, or an “unintentional” fall into the hotel pool.
A design signature of Bell & Ross, the stainless steel watch case has its familiar “Circle within a Square” design, however, when compared to the original BR 05 model, the size has been ever so slightly increased to 41mm. This increase means that the watch has also had some proportions revised, resulting in a slightly thinner bezel on the BR 05 GMT – bringing it in line with the BR 05 Chrono.
Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback is what Bell & Ross calls the BR-CAL.325, an automatic mechanical movement with GMT function. Important to note is that the GMT function on this watch adjusts the red 24 hour hand in 1 hour increments, colloquially known as a “caller’s GMT”. This enables the wearer to see local/home time and date with the main hour and minute hands and the date aperture, and the second time zone is read through the 24 hour hand.
The Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT is undoubtedly a stylish and functional watch – getting the job done whilst looking great doing it. It evokes a sense of wanderlust for those who wear it, a reminder of modern-day travel, and creates a yearning for adventure within its owner. For a watch that can muster these feelings within its wearer, the BR 05 GMT is ready to accompany its wearer on whatever their travels will bring them.
Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.325. Automatic mechanical.
Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, second 24-hour time zone and date. Quick setting of the GMT hand, independently of the hour hand.
Case: 41 mm in width. Satin-finished and polished steel. White and black two-colour flange, with 24-hour scale. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire case-back with 360° oscillating weight.
Dial: Black sunray. Numerals and indices coated in white Super- LumiNova®. Metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands.
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 100 metres
Strap: Black Rubber, or satin-finished and polished steel
Buckle: Folding, Satin finished and polished steel