Patek Philippe – Complications Showcasing Fields of Excellence for 2022

Aside from the fanfare of the newly unveiled Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5811, the brand unveiled a slew of new models that truly demonstrate the breadth of the savoir-faire that Patek Philippe displays across all of its creations. It is always a delightful event when Patek Philippe unveils its latest complications, and we will be outlining six of their latest creations.

Ref. 5373P-001: Split Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

The name itself reveals how much work has gone into this single reference from the brand renowned for its Grand Complications. This new reference takes the previous Ref. 5372 (with all of its complications) and makes it a watch for left handers. The watch takes its inspiration from a 1927 cushion-shaped wristwatch with a split seconds chronograph, that was made on request in a left-handed configuration. A unique configuration of the dial was made for this special request piece, crafted in silver with Breguet numerals, and a chronograph layout that is opposite to that of a watch that has its pusher and crown on the right side of the case. To complete the left-handed arrangement of this watch, the movement was rotated 180 degrees to accommodate the layout. 

The 5373P takes this historical watch and combines this with a perpetual calendar – a complication that is almost synonymous with Patek Philippe and complicated watches. This new grand complication measures 38.5mm in diameter and is exquisitely crafted from platinum – as per tradition with all platinum watches from Patek Philippe, a diamond is set into the caseband, however it is set at 12 o’clock, instead of 6 o’clock as it is a left-handed configuration. The dial is charcoal coloured with a fume finish and a vertical satin brushing, and reveals the grand complication in all of its glory. 3 and 9 o’clock feature subdials for the chronograph (running seconds and chronograph minutes respectively). A sporty red colour on the hands denotes the chronograph functions, with this colour extending to the chronograph minutes hand, as well as the chronograph seconds and split seconds hands. The date is visible through a subdial at 12 o’clock, flanked by the leap year and day/night indicators, and the day and month indications are set within the 3 and 9 o’clock subdials respectively. Start and stop control of the chronograph is done through the pusher set into the crown at 9 o’clock, and the rattrapante (split seconds) functions are controlled through the pusher at 8 o’clock. 

The watch is delivered on a calf-skin leather strap that is embossed to resemble a fabric strap, fastened with a platinum folding clasp. The watch is also delivered with a solid platinum caseback, should one ever get sick of the view through the sapphire crystal caseback, where the CHR 27-525 PS Q movement can be admired. A signature of this movement are two column wheels that control the chronograph and rattrapante functions, both topped with a polished cap in typical Patek Philippe style. The 5373P is now the only watch that features this movement, with its predecessor, the 5372P having been discontinued. 

Ref. 7968/300R-001: Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph

The Aquanaut Luce line of watches was first introduced in 1997, as a model for ladies who like their watches with a touch of sparkle. Luce, the Italian word for ‘light’, is an apt description for its gem set bezel, and in this release, this luminous reference not only receives a technicolor bezel, but debuts the second complication in the Aquanaut Luce line – a mechanical chronograph. 

Out of all of the elements on its 39.9mm rose gold case, the most eye-catching element of this new release is its bezel. Two rows of baguette cut gems encircle the octagonal bezel, a row of 40 Flawless Top Wesselton (F-G Colour, Internally Flawless Clarity) diamonds surrounding the dial totalling 2.05 carats, and a second, slightly angled row of 40 sapphires, each hand picked for their colour to complete the transition of colour from one sapphire to the next. Each stone is invisibly set, with a notch in the lower facet that allows for the gem to be fastened by a metal rail, invisible from the outside. 

The rainbow is continued on the inside of the dial, with each of the hour markers set with a baguette cut sapphire that matches the colour of the bezel at that point. Illuminating the appearance of the watch is the dial itself, crafted from mother of pearl and engraved with the Aquanaut’s signature grid-like pattern in the centre of the dial. 

To suit all moods and tastes, the watch comes on a red composite strap, with a matte white and a matte beige strap of the same material included. Securing this treasure to the wrist is a deployant clasp set with 10 baguette diamonds, weighing approximately 0.36 carats.

Housed within the exquisitely adorned case is the CH 28-520 movement, incorporating a chronograph that measures seconds and up to 60 minutes, as well as automatic winding. This movement from Patek Philippe also features a vertical clutch, meaning that starting and stopping the chronograph will not result in jitters from gears meshing together, leading to higher precision of timed events. It also means that the chronograph seconds hand will not adversely affect timekeeping, and can also be used as a running seconds hand, should the wearer wish to activate the chronograph for this purpose.

Steel Variations on the Travel Watch – the Nautilus 5990/1A-011 and the 5935A-001

The famed Nautilus collection receives a new variation on the Travel Time Chronograph watch, the Ref. 5990/1A-011. This model is set apart by its blue dial, and its gradient finish, fading to black at its periphery. This watch is all a traveller could ever need – date displayed in a subdial at 12 o’clock, chronograph minutes in a subdial at 6 o’clock, and indicators for home and local time situated at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively. Controlling the second time zone are two pushers that are cleverly integrated into the case as the “ears” of the case on the left side of the watch. Pressing these pushers will add or subtract hours to the local time, with the home time being displayed by a second hour hand that is skeletonised to differentiate it from the local time hand.

This functionality is thanks to the CH 28-520 C FUS, that incorporates all of this functionality into a self-winding vertical clutch chronograph with travel time functionality and date. This is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback when the watch is turned around.

This watch also features the new Nautilus bracelet, that is patented to Patek Philippe with its four independent catches, and its on-the-fly adjustable clasp.

Another steel rarity unveiled by Patek Philippe is the Ref. 5945A-001 World Time Flyback Chronograph, which was previously seen in precious metals only.

Combining two emblematic complications of the brand – world time and chronograph, the watch features a rose coloured dial, with guillochage in the centre of the watch that evokes a “carbon fibre” pattern, as well as harking to the Ref. 6007 Calatrava model that was made in celebration of the new manufacturing facility at Plan-les-Ouates in 2020.

The watch is delivered with two straps, a grained taupe strap, and beige nubuck with a velvety finish. Housed inside the stainless steel case is the CH 28-520 HU, a self-winding vertical clutch chronograph movement with world time functionality.

Patek Philippe once again manages to surprise and delight its fans with models that are sure to become fan favourites. Through these pieces, the brand not only shows its dedication to Fine Watchmaking, but it also shows its mastery of gemsetting, as well as its master of creating insatiable demand that will make any watch enthusiast chomp at the bit to get their hands on these cult models.