At the intersection of tradition and modernity, Vacheron Constantin has been creating watches for over 260 years, capturing the zeitgeist, whilst respecting the tenets of Haute Horlogerie. From historic pocket watches like the “King Farouk” and the Ref. 57260 (made in celebration of the brand’s 260th anniversary and is the most complicated in the world), to the ever popular Overseas models, the innovative Twin Beat (with the ability to conserve power to enable 65 days of running time whilst in storage), and the numerous Les Cabinotiers pieces that combine metiers d’art and modern watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin is quietly continuing its quest for perfection in Fine Watchmaking. As 2022 commences, Vacheron Constantin releases the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface – a great 20th Century design that has been modernised to suit contemporary tastes.
A luxurious case protecting a modern looking movement, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface comes in a 41mm 18K 5N Pink Gold or 18K White Gold case, contemporary in its design with its angular lines and fluted screwed caseback. On the dial side, the watch invites curious minds to peer into the movement’s operation with its construction – the sapphire crystal dial shows incredible depth exhibiting the guilloche upper-half and a grey ring that is the date indicator – above that is a sapphire crystal holding the case matching applied hour markers. The attractive monochromatic grey tones are achieved with a NAC treatment, giving the exterior a very modern appearance, reminiscent of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar that was released in 2019. Dauphine hands complete the dial side of the watch – a very regal, yet contemporary looking choice for hands that are also colour matched to the case.
Housed within the precious metal case is the Calibre 2460 QCL/2 that is automatically wound and openworked – as mentioned previously, is given a NAC treatment to darken the appearance of its bridges and plates for a more contemporary look and feel. On the dial side, the complete calendar complication can be seen, with day and month towards the top of the dial, and date shown at the periphery of the dial, indicated by a crescent moon hand.
A moonphase indicator is located at 6 o’clock, featuring a photo-realistic moon that shows its cratered surface – the shape indicated is achieved through frosting of the sapphire crystal dial above the moonphase disc. Befitting its modernity, the moonphase indicator is so accurate that it does not require adjusting for 122 years. In addition, the movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour – a frequency considered optimal for modern watches for its ability to recover from shock and positional errors, amongst others. The plates of the movement feature Cotes de Geneve, as well as a fine straight grained finishing on the dial side where the calendar is located. Adorning the movement is a 22K gold rotor, and to top it all off, the movement is Geneva Seal certified, meaning that it is not only beautiful, but its functionality in terms of its complications, water resistance and timekeeping are also guaranteed.
Through the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, Vacheron Constantin have shown that they are capable of creating watches that pay tribute to its past – shown through decorative techniques such as the guilloche work on the dial, as well as its adherence to the strict aesthetic criteria of the Poincon de Geneve (Geneva Seal). Simultaneously, modernity through its monochromatic choice of colours, as well as utilising a movement that is tested to meet the demands of the modern consumer shows Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to modern watchmaking.
As such, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is the intersection of past and present in one watch – a juxtaposition that results in an attractive watch that is old school enough to fit in with such a storied brand, and modern enough to fit in with the cool kids on the block.
Tech Specs
References: 4020T/000G-B655, 4020T/000R-B654
Calibre: 2460 QCL/2, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, mechanical self-winding, 29mm diameter, 5.45mm thick, 40 hours of power reserve, 4Hz, 312 components, 27 Jewels, Poincon de Geneve certified timepiece
Indications: Hours, minutes, complete calendar (day of the week, date, month), precision moon phase
Case: 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold, 41mm diameter, 10.7mm thick, transparent sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar
Dial: Assembled in three parts (slate grey guilloche upper part, slate grey opaline flange, sapphire crystal with 18K gold hour-markers), 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers, hour & minutes hands, 18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent
Strap: Grey alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone on tone stitching, square scales
Buckle: 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold buckle, polished half Maltese cross-shaped