Watch brands have long distinguished themselves through different designs, their ad campaigns, or their brand ambassadors. Some have achieved this through their unique mechanisms, but few can be distinguished by a seemingly simple fume/graduated dial. H.Moser is certainly the brand that is best known for these curious dials, their colours drawing the attention of collectors, connoisseurs and casual observers for a number of years now. For 2021, H.Moser & Cie combines a unique design, a unique mechanism, and a unique dial colour for the new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar – a trifecta of elements that bring this watch and H.Moser firmly into the spotlight.
Originally launched in 2020, the Streamliner collection was H.Moser & Cie’s take on a watch with an integrated bracelet. Inspired by 1920s and 30s locomotives with its curved shape, the watch was known for its distinctive design combined with fine watchmaking from the town of Schaffhausen.
The new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar brings the best of H.Moser & Cie. – a distinctive fume dial, a soft, curved case with an integrated bracelet, and its superb perpetual calendar movement, all in one watch. Starting with a 42.3mm stainless steel case, the top of the case is radially satin brushed, while the bracelet (operated by a push button triple folding clasp) takes on a vertical satin brushing that gives continuity to the finishing.
The case flanks feature a mix of polished and brushed surfaces, whilst the back is mirror polished, with a sapphire crystal display caseback. The crown is positioned at 4 o’clock, an unusual position for the crown, but matches well with the industrial nature of the Streamliner design. The dial is black with a fume effect, lighter at its centre, and fading to black towards its periphery. A power reserve indicator is positioned at 10 o’clock, and the large date window is featured at 4 o’clock, which is in line with the crown. The date is shown through two superimposed discs that operate one after another, from 1-15 and then from 16-31.
Interestingly, the numerals for the date also feature a luminescent material, providing low-light visibility, as well as visual interest to the dial. The minutes markers evoke precision timing instruments such as stopwatches, with its staggered fraction-of-a-second positioning.
The hour and minute hands are baton shaped, and are fitted with a Globolight insert – a ceramic material that H.Moser & Cie often utilises on its dials and hands, that is infused with SuperLuminova for a long lasting glow in low light conditions. A central seconds hand in white runs around the dial, and the month indicator is coloured red, and also comes out through the centre of the dial.
The hour markers are applied indices, and the H.Moser logo is executed in a clear lacquer, disappearing and reappearing depending on the angle.
Setting this watch apart is its movement – the Calibre HMC 812. Very similar to its predecessor, the Calibre HMC 341, the new calibre featured in the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar features a direct drive central seconds hand, as opposed to a subsidiary seconds hand – this is because the Streamliner collection has a central seconds hand as part of its design. This direct drive central seconds hand also decreases friction within the movement, making it more efficient. The power reserve of this watch is very impressive – 7 days of power reserve. Furthermore, the leap year indicator for the perpetual calendar is moved to the back, which cleans up the dial considerably. All of the date indications change at midnight, through the “Flash Calendar” instantaneous date changing mechanism, and can also be changed forwards and backwards – great for user experience.
In typical H.Moser & Cie style, the watch features a Straumann hairspring from its sister company, Precision Engineering AG. Finishing-wise, the watch features the signature Moser double horizontal stripes, with an anthracite grey colouring achieved through PVD – on the barrel bridge, escapement plate and the train bridges. Interestingly, the barrels are secured with gold screwed chatons that add a lot of visual interest to the movement, as well as a nod to some of the brand’s Teutonic origins.
Overall, the H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is a logical evolution of this collection, that remains true to its distinctive design – not only through its aesthetics, but also its movement design and function. H.Moser & Cie always manage to make watches that are aesthetically pleasing, with clever functionality, and the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is certainly no exception.
Check out our video on the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar below:
Steel topped by a gently domed sapphire crystal Diameter: 42.3 mm Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm Screw-in crown at 4 o’clock adorned with an engraved “M” See-through case-back
Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Integrated steel bracelet Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo Half-links available
Blackor fumé with sunburst pattern H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts Central seconds, power reserve hand and months hand with white decal Minute track for seconds and minutes Applique indices
Hand-wound HMC 812 Manufacture calibre Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes Height: 6.3 mm Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
33 jewels Power reserve: minimum 168 hours Hacking seconds Double barrel Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions Modular interchangeable Moser escapement Original Straumann® hairspring Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork Screwed gold mounts Balance bridge, train wheel bridge, barrel bridge, and escapement plate with anthracite PVD finish Main plate, stop lever, and week wheel bridge with microblasted laser finish and anthracite rhodium plating
Hours and minutes Direct-drive central seconds Perpetual calendar with date and month Big date at 4 o’clock, numerals tilted to 26° Month indicator via red central hand Power reserve indicator Leap year cycle indicator on movement side